There's nightlife to spare in KL, from fashionable lounges to sprawling discos to pubs perfect for lounging. Basically, you can expect to pay about RM11 to RM20 (US$2.90-US$5.25) for a pint of beer, depending on what and where you order. While quite a few pubs are open for lunch, most clubs won't open until about 6 or 7pm. These places must all close by 1am, so don't plan on staying out too late. Nearly all have a happy hour, usually between 5 and 7pm, when drink discounts apply on draft beers and "house-pour" (lower shelf) mixed drinks. Generally, you're expected to wear dress casual clothing for these places, but avoid old jeans, tennis shoes, and very revealing outfits.

While there are some very good places in Kuala Lumpur, the true nightlife spot is in a place called Bangsar, just outside the city limits. It's 2 or 3 blocks of bars, cafes, and restaurants that cater to a variety of tastes (in fact, so many expatriates hang out there, they call it Kweiloh Lumpur, "Foreigner Lumpur" in Mandarin). Every taxi driver knows where it is. Get in and ask to go to Jalan Telawi Tiga in Bangsar (fare should be no more than RM5 or RM6/US$1.30 or US$1.60), and once there it's very easy to catch a cab back to town. Begin at The Roof (2 Jalan Telawi 4; tel. 03/2282-7168), a three-story open-air cafe/bar that looks like a crazy Louisiana cathouse (you really can't miss it). From there you can try La Bodega (16 Jalan Telawi 2; tel. 03/2287-8318) for some funky dance music; or Finnegan's (tel. 03/284-0187), a very rowdy Irish bar. And that's only the beginning.

Back in Kuala Lumpur, there are some fun bars and pubs that I'd recommend. If you just want to hop around and see different places, I'd suggest heading for the corner of Jalan Sultan Ismail and Jalan P. Ramlee, and head down P. Ramlee and check out the colorful pubs, clubs and tiki bars along this stretch. For a reliable Irish pub, Delaney's, ground floor, Park Royal Hotel, Jalan Sultan Ismail (tel. 03/2141-5195), has a good selection of draft beers.

For a little live music with your drinks, the Hard Rock Cafe, Jalan Sultan Ismail next to Concorde Hotel (tel. 03/2144-4062), hosts the best of the regional bands, which play nightly for a crowd of locals, tourists, and expatriates who take their parties very seriously.